Flores, the island named ‘flowers’ by 16th century Portuguese colonists, is part of Indonesia, located between Sumba to the east and West Timor to the west. The interior is lush with large volcanoes, spectacular rice fields and lakes, and exotic cultures. It has a population of two million with around 85% of people being Catholic. Here is our guide to travelling through Flores with kids.
TRAVELLING THROUGH FLORES WITH KIDS
We had six nights to spend on Flores, divided between the mainland and the islands of Rinca and Komodo.
GETTING THERE
We flew into Ende via Labuanbajo, from Denpasar in Bali, in small propeller planes. From the planes there were great views of the mountains and volcanoes of Bali, Lombok and Flores.
Tourism in Flores is still relatively undeveloped. Accommodation is basic with few options, food is repetitive, and travelling distances are long. This is definetely a destination for the more intrepid traveler.
MONI AND THE KELIMUTU CRATER LAKES
Our journey started in Ende, on the south coast of Flores, from where we travelled to Moni. Moni is a small village and the closest place to stay to the Kelimutu National Park. We stayed overnight at Bintang Bungalows in very simple accommodation, ready for our sunrise trip to the Kelimutu Crater Lakes.
The Kelimutu Lakes are spectacular – three lakes in total, in deep craters. Located at an altitude of 1600 metres, near the summit of the Kelimutu volcano. The lakes change colour depending on their mineral and oxygen content.
We got up at 4am to set off for the lakes. It takes about 45 minutes by car from Moni. It is then a 30 minute walk to the highest lookout point over the lakes. We would recommend actually starting from Moni at 4am so that you are actually at the lookout for sunrise. We were in the carpark at sunrise..! The lakes and the scenery were spectacular all the same.
DRIVING THROUGH INLAND FLORES
From Moni we travelled back to Ende and then eastwards across Flores, to the small hill town of Bajawa. A long day of driving! This journey took nine hours with short stops en-route at Ende for lunch, Blue Stone Beach, and lastly some hot springs. Roads were narrow and winding and at times, dirt roads. It takes a long time to get anywhere on Flores, but this is part of the adventurous style of travel.
BAJAWA AND THE NAGADA VILLAGES
Bajawa is surrounded by volcanoes, with the 2245 metre Mount Inerie looming large to the south. We stayed overnight in Bajawa before visiting the Nagada village of Bena, staying at the Happy Happy Hotel. Another simple accommodation, but clean, and with a reasonable breakfast.
Resting on Mount Inerie’s flank, Bena is one of the most traditional Ngada villages. Over 60,000 Ngada people inhabit the upland Bajawa plateau. 
The most evident symbols of continuing Ngada tradition are pairs of ngadhu (parasol like structure) and bhaga (miniature thatched roof house). The ngadhu is ‘male’ and the bhaga is ‘female,’ each pair associated with a family in the village. These structures are used for ceremonies marking births, deaths, marriages and house building, as well as agricultural offerings, often involving gory animal sacrifices. The Ngada are often black from animal blood spilled at sacrifices.
In Bena, houses with high thatched roofs line up in two rows opposite each other. Between them are fine ngadhu, bhaga (smeared with sacrificial blood) and megalithic tomblike structures. Houses have male or female figurines on their rooftops, while doorways are decorated with buffalo horns and pig jawbones, from sacrificial animals.
GETTING TO LABUANBAJO
We ended up staying an extra night in Bajawa and flying from here to Labuanbajo on a short thirty minute flight. We had planned to drive but on realising the long driving time, ten to twelve hours in all, we changed our plans. With only a short amount of time, a flight is the right option for getting across Flores and out to the islands of Rinca and Komodo.
DRAGON TREKKING ON RINCA AND KOMODO ISLANDS
The highlight of our trip to Flores was a two day/one night trip out to the islands of Rinca and Komodo to view Komodo dragons in their natural habitat. At Labuanbajo we boarded a simple wooden boat for the trip. We visited both Rinca and Komodo Islands, home of Komodo dragons. The only way to see the dragons is by hiking with a guide on the islands, with nothing but a forked stick for protection! We saw plenty of dragons during our time on the islands, as well as beautiful island vistas.
For more about our trip to Komodo National Park read: Walking with Dragons:Taking a Trip to Komodo with Children
WHERE WE STAYED
Moni Bintang Bungalows – simple accommodation near the Kelimutu Crater Lakes.
Bajawa Happy Happy Hotel – nice, simple B&B with a good breakfast.
Labuanbajo Golo Hilltop – we didn’t actually stay here but stopped here for a drink on the way to the airport. Large, clean bungalows set on a hillside overlooking the sea.
ADVICE FOR TRAVELLING IN FLORES
Top Komodo Tours organised our stay in Flores. They are a company still learning the trade so we had a few mishaps. The main advantage of using a tour company in Flores is to organise transport across the island and over to Komodo/Rinca. It is hard to recommend Top Komodo Tours as a great operator but as with the accommodation options are somewhat limited. They will improve with experience and have a team with the right intentions.
Flores is a beautiful island but driving distances are long. Roads are paved but winding and very slow. Research driving times and consider flying. There are airports at Maumere, Ende, Bajawa and Labuanbajo. We would recommend flying into Ende and seeing the Kelimutu Crater Lakes but then consider whether to fly from here to Labuanbajo for a trip to Rinca and Komodo Islands. Or as we did, drive from Ende to Bajawa to see the jungle volcano strewn interior of Flores and the Nagada villages of central Flores before flying from Bajawa to Labuanbajo.
Tourism in Flores is still relatively undeveloped. Accommodation is basic with few options and food is repetitive. This is definetely a destination for the more intrepid traveler. The scenery and lack of development make Flores an attractive destination for people wanting to see some real Indonesia rather than what Bali has become.
Watch this video of our time on Flores and in Komodo National Park.
If you’ve travelled to Flores with kids, let us know your experiences in the comments.
Updated Post June 2018
