Exploring the Punakha Valley

The drive from Thimphu to Punakha is an experience in itself. It is a 3.5 hour drive on roads that are currently under construction. Road widening (started in 2014 and due to be finished in 2018) is currently taking place on this whole stretch and whilst the road has now mostly been widened it is still in need of tarmac in many areas. For us, that meant driving on winding, potholed roads on the side of the mountains. As it had rained much of the road was slippery, muddy and bumpy, which meant for very slow going. We encountered a number of fresh landslides onto the road and stretches where the road had been washed into the valley below!

Along the way we passed over the Dochu La Pass at 3140 metres, marked by an array of prayer flags and an impressive collection of 108 chortens built as a memorial to Bhutanese soldiers killed in an uprising in 2003. On a clear day the pass offers a panoramic view of the Bhutan Himalaya, unfortunately for us it was cloudy (as is typical at this time of year). The best time for views from here are late October to February.

We had two days to spend in Punakha. The Punakha Valley is a beautiful area, with its rice terraces and backdrop of Himalaya Mountains.  Punakha was the capital of Bhutan for 300 years.

CHIMI LHAKHANG

Our first stop in the Punakha Valley was at Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the Divine Madman.  Lama Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman, is one of Bhutan’s favourite saints, famous for his sexual exploits.  His temple is now visited by childless couples searching to increase their fertility.  We walked to the temple through rice fields, a pleasant  and easy forty minute walk. Many buildings around Punakha are adorned with Phalluses, these are as a result of the Divine Madman teachings and sexual humour and are thought to keep evil spirits away. These same Phalluses are hot souvenirs available for purchase.  What an education the boys are getting on this trip…!

HIKING TO THE KHAMSUM YUELLEY NAMGYAL CHORTEN

A bridge across the Mo Chhu (Mother River) provides access to an hour long hike uphill initially through the rice fields and then up a fairly steep slope to the chorten. It is dedicated to the fifth and present king and serves to protect the country. The views from the top of the chorten up and down the Punakha valley are spectacular and well worth the climb.

WHITE WATER RAFTING ON THE MO CHUU (MOTHER RIVER)

The highlight for the boys was white water rafting on the Mo Chhu. This was their first experience of rafting and they absolutely loved it, so much so that they wanted to do it all again immediately after we had finished. We have had to promise them a future rafting trip somewhere else on our round the world adventure!

The put in point for our raft was the bridge across the river from where we had hiked up to the temple. First we donned lifejackets and helmets, then a short safety briefing, before we were off. Recent rain meant that the river was fast flowing and high. There were many rapids all of which were great fun and led to us all getting absolutely soaked, interspersed with more gentle sections where we floated along. Towards the end of the rafting we passed Punakha Dzong which we were to visit immediately after lunch – it was a wonderful sight to see from the river. Click to see our white water rafting video on YouTube.

You can raft both the Mo Chhu (Mother River) and the Pho Chhu (Father River) in the Punakha valley. We chose the Mo Chhu as it is the easier for rafting and suitable for children. It was great fun with plenty of excitement and a must if you are a fun loving family like us.

PUNAKHA DZONG

A dzong is a fortress with both religious and political purposes. These are large, impressive buildings built approximately 400 years ago and still in use today.  Punakha Dzong built at the meeting point of the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu rivers, is arguably the most beautiful dzong in the country. It was the second dzong to be built in Bhutan, built in 1637 by Zhabdrung, and served as the capital and seat of parliament until Thimphu became capital in the 1950’s. It is indeed a beautiful dzong and a must see whilst in Punakha.

BHUTANESE ARCHITECTURE

We loved the Bhutanese architecture. For the most part buildings would be rather plain but the woodwork was all beautifully painted and decorated. The buildings reminded us of Alpine chalets although the painted woodwork was unique to Bhutan.

WHERE WE STAYED

We stayed at the Meri Puensum Resort outside of Punakha town but with good views of the Punakha valley. We had two bungalow rooms, large, comfortable and very peaceful. WIFI does not reach the rooms but is available in the restaurant and outdoor seating area.